{"articles":[{"id":"K01","title":"How do I apply acrylic-latex interior caulk?","audience":"homeowners sealing indoor gaps","prerequisites":["Clean, dry interior gap","Acrylic-latex interior caulk"],"article":"To apply acrylic-latex interior caulk, work on an interior gap and follow these numbered steps. 1. Clean and dry the gap. Remove dust, loose material, and moisture so the opening is ready. 2. Cut the nozzle. Trim the tip to match the gap so you can control the bead. 3. Apply a steady bead. Move along the joint at an even pace so the caulk fills the space in a continuous line. 4. Smooth the bead. Tool the caulk so it meets both sides of the gap. 5. Paint after the caulk has cured. Wait until curing is finished before you paint. This caulk is not for submerged locations. Do not use it where the joint would sit under water. Always start with a clean, dry gap. Cut the nozzle before you apply any caulk. Lay a steady bead, then smooth it. Painting is the last action and happens only after the product has cured. Keep the work out of submerged locations. If the gap is dirty or wet, clean and dry it before you continue. If the nozzle is still sealed or the wrong size, cut it first. Keep the bead steady so smoothing is straightforward. Do not paint until the caulk has cured. Do not use acrylic-latex interior caulk in a submerged location. The method is limited to those facts: clean and dry the gap, cut the nozzle, apply a steady bead, smooth, and paint after cured. Repeat this sequence on each interior gap. Stay with interior, non-submerged joints only.","warning":"Not for submerged locations.","troubleshooting":["Uneven bead: recut the nozzle and apply a steadier line.","Paint looks wrong: wait until the caulk has cured before painting."]},{"id":"K02","title":"How do I install peel-and-stick floor planks?","audience":"homeowners installing floor planks","prerequisites":["Unopened boxes of peel-and-stick floor planks","Room available for 48-hour acclimation","Clean, dry, flat subfloor"],"article":"To install peel-and-stick floor planks, prepare the room and the subfloor, then lay planks with staggered seams. 1. Acclimate unopened boxes in the room for 48 hours. Leave the boxes closed. Keep them in the same room where the floor will go for the full 48 hours. 2. Confirm the subfloor is clean, dry, and flat. Remove dirt and debris. The surface must be dry. The surface must be flat. 3. Stagger the seams as you install. Offset end joints from row to row so seams do not line up in a straight run. Do not open the boxes during acclimation. Do not skip the 48 hours in the room. Do not install on a subfloor that is dirty, wet, or uneven. Do not align all seams in one line. Acclimation happens first, with boxes still unopened, in the installation room, for 48 hours. Subfloor checks come next: clean, dry, and flat. Staggering seams happens as you set the planks. If the boxes have not sat in the room for 48 hours unopened, wait. If the subfloor is not clean, dry, and flat, stop and correct it. As each row goes down, stagger the seams. Peel-and-stick floor planks need those conditions: 48-hour acclimation in unopened boxes in the room, a clean dry flat subfloor, and staggered seams. Follow that order. Keep boxes unopened during the 48 hours. Recheck the subfloor before the first plank. Stagger every row across the whole floor. Do not install until acclimation and subfloor conditions are met.","warning":"none","troubleshooting":["Planks will not lie flat: confirm the subfloor is clean, dry, and flat.","Visible seam pattern: stagger seams from row to row."]},{"id":"K03","title":"How do I use a magnetic stud finder?","audience":"homeowners locating wall studs","prerequisites":["Magnetic stud finder","Finished wall to scan"],"article":"To use a magnetic stud finder, scan the wall slowly and mark metal fasteners so you can trace the stud. 1. Move the finder slowly across the wall. Do not rush the pass. A slow movement is the method given. 2. Treat each hit as metal, not as wood. The tool finds metal fasteners, not wood directly. A reading means a fastener, not the wood of the stud itself. 3. Mark more than one fastener. After the first mark, keep scanning and mark additional fasteners. Use those marks to trace the stud. The tool does not locate wood directly. It locates metal fasteners. One fastener is not enough; mark more than one so you can trace the stud line. Move slowly on every pass. When the finder indicates metal, mark that point. Continue along the wall and mark the next fastener. Compare the marks to trace where the stud runs. If you moved quickly, slow down and scan again. If you have only one mark, scan for additional fasteners and mark them. Remember that the reading is metal, not wood. A magnetic stud finder is used by moving slowly across the wall, recognizing that it finds metal fasteners rather than wood directly, and marking more than one fastener to trace the stud. Repeat slow passes as needed. Keep marking fasteners until you can trace the stud. Do not assume a single mark shows the full stud. Do not treat the tool as a direct wood finder. Stay with slow movement, metal-fastener readings, and multiple marks on each wall you scan.","warning":"It finds metal fasteners, not wood directly.","troubleshooting":["No clear reading: move more slowly across the wall.","Unsure of the stud line: mark more than one fastener and trace between the marks."]},{"id":"K04","title":"How do I apply weatherstrip tape?","audience":"homeowners sealing contact surfaces","prerequisites":["Weatherstrip tape","Clean, dry contact surface","Measuring tool"],"article":"To apply weatherstrip tape, prepare the contact surface, measure, then apply the tape without stretching it. 1. Clean and dry the contact surface. Remove dirt, dust, and moisture so the tape has a clean, dry place to sit. 2. Measure first. Take the length you need before you cut or place the tape so the piece matches the opening. 3. Apply the tape without stretching it. Lay it along the measured path. Do not pull or stretch the tape during application. Do not apply tape to a dirty or wet surface. Do not skip measuring. Do not stretch the tape as you set it down. Cleaning and drying come first. Measuring comes next so you know the length before the tape goes on. Application is last, and the tape must not be stretched while you apply it. If the contact surface is dirty or wet, stop and clean and dry it. If you have not measured, measure before you place the tape. If the tape is being pulled tight, ease off and apply it without stretch. Weatherstrip tape is applied only to a clean, dry contact surface, after you measure, and without stretching during application. Repeat that order on each run of tape. Keep the surface clean and dry from start to finish. Keep the length based on the measurement you took first. Keep the tape relaxed as it goes on. Do not reverse the order. Do not stretch to make a short piece reach. Measure first, then apply without stretch on the prepared surface.","warning":"Do not stretch the tape during application.","troubleshooting":["Tape will not stick: clean and dry the contact surface.","Tape pulls short or gaps: measure first and do not stretch during application."]},{"id":"K05","title":"How do I use a drywall mesh patch?","audience":"homeowners patching drywall","prerequisites":["Drywall mesh patch","Joint compound","Damaged drywall with loose paper removed"],"article":"To use a drywall mesh patch, prepare the damaged paper, stick the patch, cover it with compound, and wait for the compound to dry before sanding or paint. 1. Remove loose paper. Take off paper that is not firmly attached so the patch can sit on a sound area. 2. Stick the patch. Place the mesh over the opening so it adheres in position. 3. Cover with compound. Apply compound over the mesh so the patch is covered. 4. Let the compound dry before sanding or paint. Do not sand yet. Do not paint yet. Wait until the compound is dry. Do not stick a patch over loose paper. Do not skip covering the patch with compound. Do not sand or paint while the compound is still wet. Removing loose paper comes first. Sticking the patch comes next. Compound goes over the stuck patch. Drying comes before any sanding or paint. If loose paper remains, remove it before the patch goes on. If the patch is not stuck, stick it before you apply compound. If the compound is not dry, wait before sanding or paint. A drywall mesh patch is used in that order only: remove loose paper, stick the patch, cover with compound, and let the compound dry before sanding or paint. Repeat the same sequence on each damaged spot. Keep loose paper off the area. Keep the patch stuck before compound. Keep compound over the mesh. Keep sanding and paint after the compound has dried. Do not sand or paint first. Do not leave the mesh uncovered. Follow the listed method through drying.","warning":"Let the compound dry before sanding or paint.","troubleshooting":["Patch will not stay: remove loose paper before you stick the mesh.","Sanding or paint fails: let the compound dry fully first."]},{"id":"K06","title":"How do I install linkable LED bars?","audience":"homeowners installing linkable LED bars","prerequisites":["Linkable LED bars","Power unplugged before connecting"],"article":"To install linkable LED bars, keep power off while you connect them, stay within the link limit, and mount them before you plug in. 1. Unplug before connecting. Disconnect power before you join any bars. Do not connect bars while they are plugged in. 2. Link no more than six bars. Count the bars in the run. Stop at six. Do not add a seventh bar to the same linked run. 3. Mount before plugging in. Fasten the bars in place first. Plug in only after mounting is done. Do not connect while plugged in. Do not link more than six bars. Do not plug in before the bars are mounted. Unplugging comes first. Linking comes next, with a maximum of six bars. Mounting comes after linking and before power is restored. Plugging in is last. If the bars are still plugged in, unplug before you connect them. If the run has more than six bars, reduce it to no more than six. If the bars are not mounted, mount them before you plug in. Linkable LED bars are installed with those three rules: unplug before connecting, link no more than six bars, and mount before plugging in. Repeat the same limits on each run. Keep power off during connecting. Keep the linked count at six or fewer. Keep mounting complete before the plug goes in. Do not reverse plug-in and mounting. Do not exceed six linked bars. Do not connect under power. Follow the listed order from unplug through mount to plug-in.","warning":"Unplug before connecting; link no more than six bars.","troubleshooting":["Bars will not run: unplug before connecting, then mount before plugging in.","Run is too long: link no more than six bars."]},{"id":"K07","title":"How do I install a door sweep?","audience":"homeowners installing a door sweep","prerequisites":["Door sweep","Measurement of door width"],"article":"To install a door sweep, measure the door, trim the aluminum only if needed, and set the vinyl seal so it lightly touches the threshold. 1. Measure the door width. Take the width of the door so you know how long the sweep should be. 2. Trim aluminum only as needed. If the sweep is longer than the door, trim the aluminum. Do not trim more than you need. 3. Keep the vinyl seal lightly touching the threshold. Position the sweep so the vinyl meets the threshold with a light touch, not a heavy drag and not a gap. Do not skip measuring. Do not trim aluminum unless it is needed. Do not set the vinyl so it misses the threshold or presses hard into it. Measuring comes first. Trimming the aluminum comes next, and only as needed. Setting the vinyl seal to a light touch on the threshold comes last. If you do not know the door width, measure it before you cut or mount. If the aluminum is too long, trim only as needed. If the vinyl is high or jammed down, adjust until it lightly touches the threshold. A door sweep is installed with those three actions: measure door width, trim aluminum only as needed, and keep the vinyl seal lightly touching the threshold. Repeat the checks on the finished door. Keep the length based on the measured width. Keep aluminum trimming limited to what is needed. Keep the vinyl in light contact with the threshold. Do not guess the width. Do not over-trim. Do not leave a gap or a heavy scrape at the threshold. Follow the listed method from measure to light contact.","warning":"none","troubleshooting":["Sweep is too long: measure the door width and trim aluminum only as needed.","Seal drags or gaps: keep the vinyl seal lightly touching the threshold."]},{"id":"K08","title":"How do I install toggle bolts?","audience":"homeowners fastening to hollow walls","prerequisites":["Toggle bolts of the selected size","Item to mount","Drill sized for the selected bolt"],"article":"To install toggle bolts, drill for the size you selected, assemble the bolt through the item and then the toggle, and avoid overtightening in a hollow wall. 1. Drill a hole for the selected size. Match the hole to the toggle bolt size you chose. Do not drill for a different size than the one you selected. 2. Insert the bolt through the item, then the toggle. Put the bolt through the item you are hanging first. Then add the toggle. Do not reverse that order. 3. Do not overtighten in a hollow wall. Tighten only until the item is held. Extra tightening is not part of the method for a hollow wall. Do not skip drilling to the selected size. Do not put the toggle on before the bolt is through the item. Do not overtighten. Drilling to the selected size comes first. Assembly order is bolt through the item, then toggle. Tightening is last and must not be excessive in a hollow wall. If the hole is the wrong size, drill for the selected size. If the toggle is already on, take it off, pass the bolt through the item, then add the toggle. If you are still turning after the item is snug, stop so you do not overtighten the hollow wall. Toggle bolts are installed with those facts only: drill a hole for the selected size, insert the bolt through the item then the toggle, and do not overtighten a hollow wall. Repeat that order for each fastener. Keep hole size matched to the selected bolt. Keep assembly order as item first, then toggle. Keep tightening short of overtightening. Do not change the sequence. Follow the listed method on every hollow-wall connection.","warning":"Do not overtighten in a hollow wall.","troubleshooting":["Toggle will not pass through: drill a hole for the selected size.","Wall crushes or the fastener spins: do not overtighten the hollow wall."]},{"id":"K09","title":"How do I use a GFCI tester?","audience":"homeowners checking standard 120-volt outlets","prerequisites":["GFCI tester","Standard 120-volt outlet","Tester instructions for the three lights"],"article":"To use a GFCI tester, restrict it to standard 120-volt outlets, plug it in, and read the three lights against the instructions. It is not a substitute for an electrician. 1. Use only standard 120-volt outlets. Do not use the tester on other outlet types. Stay with standard 120-volt outlets only. 2. Plug in the tester. Insert it fully into the outlet you are checking. 3. Read the three lights against the instructions. Compare the light pattern to the chart or text in the instructions. Do not guess the meaning of the lights. Do not treat the tester as a substitute for an electrician. Do not use it on outlets that are not standard 120-volt. Do not skip the instructions when you read the three lights. Outlet type comes first: standard 120-volt only. Plugging in comes next. Reading the three lights against the instructions comes last. Calling an electrician is still required when you need electrical work; this tester does not replace that. If the outlet is not a standard 120-volt outlet, do not use the tester there. If the lights are on, match them to the instructions instead of interpreting them on your own. If you need electrical diagnosis or repair, use an electrician; the tester is not a substitute. A GFCI tester is used only on standard 120-volt outlets, by plugging in and reading the three lights against the instructions, and it is not a substitute for an electrician. Repeat that method at each standard 120-volt outlet you check. Keep the outlet type correct. Keep the three-light reading tied to the instructions. Keep electrician work with an electrician. Do not expand the tester beyond those facts.","warning":"Not a substitute for an electrician; use only standard 120-volt outlets.","troubleshooting":["Lights do not match what you expect: plug into a standard 120-volt outlet and read the three lights against the instructions.","You still need a diagnosis: this tester is not a substitute for an electrician."]},{"id":"K10","title":"How do I use deck screws?","audience":"homeowners fastening with deck screws","prerequisites":["Exterior coated deck screws","Star-drive bit that fully seats"],"article":"To use deck screws, choose exterior coated screws, drive them with a bit that fully seats in the star drive, and do not use them for structural connections. 1. Use exterior coated screws. Select screws that are exterior coated for this use. 2. Choose a bit that fully seats in the star drive. Fit the bit so it sits all the way into the star drive before you turn the screw. 3. Do not use these screws for structural connections. Keep them off structural connections. Use them only where a structural connection is not required. Do not use uncoated screws for this task as described. Do not drive with a bit that does not fully seat in the star drive. Do not put these screws into structural connections. Screw type comes first: exterior coated. Bit choice comes next: a bit that fully seats in the star drive. The structural limit is ongoing: do not use them for structural connections. If the screws are not exterior coated, switch to exterior coated screws. If the bit sits loosely in the star drive, choose a bit that fully seats. If the joint is structural, do not use these deck screws for that connection. Deck screws are used with those three facts: exterior coated screws, a bit that fully seats in the star drive, and no use for structural connections. Repeat that selection on every fastener. Keep the coating exterior. Keep the bit fully seated in the star drive. Keep structural connections off this fastener type. Do not mix in other screw types for this method. Do not drive with a poorly seated bit. Do not treat these screws as structural hardware. Follow the listed limits from start to finish.","warning":"Do not use for structural connections.","troubleshooting":["Drive slips or cams out: choose a bit that fully seats in the star drive.","Wrong job for the screw: use exterior coated screws and do not use them for structural connections."]},{"id":"K11","title":"How do I use tile spacers?","audience":"homeowners setting tile","prerequisites":["Tile spacers","Tiles being set","Grout not yet applied"],"article":"To use tile spacers, place them at the corners as each tile is set, keep the spacing consistent, and remove the spacers before grout. 1. Place spacers at the corners as the tile is set. Put a spacer at the corners while you set the tile, not after the whole floor or wall is finished. 2. Keep spacing consistent. Use the spacers so the joints stay the same width from tile to tile. 3. Remove the spacers before grout. Take every spacer out before you start grouting. Do not leave spacers in for grout. Do not skip corner placement as tiles are set. Do not let joint width wander. Do not grout with spacers still in place. Placement at corners happens as each tile is set. Consistent spacing is maintained during setting. Removal happens after setting and before grout. If a tile is set without corner spacers, place spacers at the corners as you continue. If joints look uneven, keep spacing consistent with the spacers. If grout is about to start, remove the spacers first. Tile spacers are used with those three facts: place at corners as tile is set, keep spacing consistent, and remove before grout. Repeat that on every tile. Keep spacers at the corners during setting. Keep the joint width consistent. Keep spacers out of the grout step. Do not wait until later to place them. Do not grout around leftover spacers. Do not change spacing from one joint to the next. Follow the listed order from setting through removal, then grout only after the spacers are out.","warning":"Remove spacers before grout.","troubleshooting":["Uneven joints: place spacers at corners as each tile is set and keep spacing consistent.","Spacers in the grout line: remove spacers before you grout."]},{"id":"K12","title":"How do I use a sink hair catcher?","audience":"homeowners maintaining a sink drain","prerequisites":["Sink hair catcher","Access to lift the catcher out"],"article":"To use a sink hair catcher, lift it out regularly, empty the debris, rinse it, and do not force it into the drain. 1. Lift it out regularly. Take the catcher out on a regular schedule so debris does not stay in place. 2. Empty the debris. Remove hair and other debris from the catcher after you lift it out. 3. Rinse the catcher. Wash remaining debris off with water after you empty it. 4. Do not force it into the drain. Set it in place without forcing. If it does not sit, do not push it harder into the drain. Do not leave the catcher in until it is packed. Do not skip emptying. Do not skip rinsing. Do not force the catcher into the drain. Lifting out regularly comes first. Emptying debris comes next. Rinsing comes after emptying. Placement is without force. If you have not lifted it out in some time, lift it out now. If debris is still in the catcher, empty it, then rinse. If the catcher resists going in, do not force it into the drain. A sink hair catcher is used with those actions: lift out regularly, empty debris, rinse, and do not force it into the drain. Repeat the same care each time you service it. Keep removal regular. Keep debris emptied. Keep the catcher rinsed. Keep installation free of force. Do not pack it in. Do not skip rinse after emptying. Do not wait until flow is blocked to lift it out. Follow the listed method for ongoing use at the sink.","warning":"Do not force it into the drain.","troubleshooting":["Water slows: lift out regularly, empty debris, and rinse.","Catcher will not sit: do not force it into the drain."]},{"id":"K13","title":"How do I use a canvas drop cloth?","audience":"homeowners protecting a work area","prerequisites":["Canvas drop cloth","Work area to cover"],"article":"To use a canvas drop cloth, cover the work area, shake out dry debris outdoors, and let wet paint dry before you fold the cloth. 1. Cover the work area. Spread the canvas so it covers the area where you are working. 2. Shake out dry debris outdoors. Take the cloth outside to remove dry debris. Shake it there, not indoors. 3. Let wet paint dry before folding. If paint on the cloth is wet, wait until it is dry. Fold only after the paint is dry. Do not leave the work area uncovered. Do not shake dry debris out inside. Do not fold the cloth while paint is still wet. Covering the work area comes first. Shaking out dry debris is done outdoors after debris is dry. Folding waits until wet paint has dried. If the work area is not covered, cover it with the canvas. If dry debris is on the cloth, take it outdoors and shake it out. If paint is wet, wait for it to dry before folding. A canvas drop cloth is used with those three facts: cover the work area, shake out dry debris outdoors, and let wet paint dry before folding. Repeat that care after each job. Keep the work area covered during work. Keep dry-debris removal outdoors. Keep folding after wet paint has dried. Do not shake debris inside. Do not fold a wet, painted cloth. Do not skip covering the work area. Follow the listed method from covering through outdoor shake-out to dry folding. Use the same order every time you put the cloth away.","warning":"Let wet paint dry before folding.","troubleshooting":["Debris stays on the cloth: shake out dry debris outdoors.","Paint smears when stored: let wet paint dry before folding."]},{"id":"K14","title":"How do I install a closet rod?","audience":"homeowners installing a closet rod","prerequisites":["Closet rod for a 48–72 inch span","Brackets","Suitable support for the brackets"],"article":"To install a closet rod, confirm the span is 48–72 inches, mount the brackets into suitable support, and extend the rod after the brackets are set. 1. Confirm the span is 48–72 inches. Check the distance the rod must cover. Stay within 48–72 inches. 2. Mount the brackets into suitable support. Fasten each bracket to support that is suitable. Do not mount brackets into support that is not suitable. 3. Extend the rod after the brackets are set. Wait until both brackets are mounted. Then extend the rod into place. Do not install on a span outside 48–72 inches. Do not mount brackets without suitable support. Do not extend the rod before the brackets are set. Span check comes first. Bracket mounting into suitable support comes next. Extending the rod is last, after the brackets are set. If the span is not between 48 and 72 inches, do not proceed with this rod for that span. If the support is not suitable, find suitable support before you mount the brackets. If the brackets are not yet set, set them before you extend the rod. A closet rod is installed with those three facts: confirm a 48–72 inch span, mount brackets into suitable support, and extend the rod after the brackets are set. Repeat the checks on the finished install. Keep the span inside 48–72 inches. Keep brackets in suitable support. Keep rod extension last. Do not reverse rod and brackets. Do not skip the span check. Do not mount to unsuitable support. Follow the listed order from span confirmation through brackets to the extended rod.","warning":"none","troubleshooting":["Span is wrong or the rod sags: confirm the span is 48–72 inches.","Brackets loosen: mount brackets into suitable support, then extend the rod after they are set."]},{"id":"K15","title":"How do I apply concrete crack filler?","audience":"homeowners filling horizontal concrete cracks","prerequisites":["Concrete crack filler","Horizontal crack swept free of debris"],"article":"To apply concrete crack filler, sweep the crack, use it on horizontal cracks only, and do not use it for structural repair. 1. Sweep debris from the crack. Remove loose material so the crack is clear before filler goes in. 2. Use on horizontal cracks only. Apply this filler only where the crack is horizontal. Do not use it on cracks that are not horizontal. 3. Do not use it for structural repair. This filler is not for structural repair. Keep it off structural repair work. Do not apply over debris. Do not use it on non-horizontal cracks. Do not treat it as structural repair. Sweeping debris comes first. Confirming a horizontal crack comes next. The structural limit applies throughout: not for structural repair. If debris is still in the crack, sweep it out before you fill. If the crack is not horizontal, do not use this filler there. If the need is structural repair, do not use this concrete crack filler. Concrete crack filler is used with those three facts: sweep debris, use on horizontal cracks only, and not for structural repair. Repeat that filter on every crack you consider. Keep the crack swept. Keep the orientation horizontal. Keep structural repair off this product. Do not fill a dirty crack. Do not move this filler to a vertical or structural crack. Do not skip the sweep. Follow the listed method only on horizontal, non-structural cracks after debris is swept out. Stay inside those limits from start to finish on each crack you fill.","warning":"Horizontal cracks only; not for structural repair.","troubleshooting":["Filler will not stay in the crack: sweep debris first.","Wrong crack: use on horizontal cracks only; this is not for structural repair."]},{"id":"K16","title":"How do I install a recessed MDF shelf?","audience":"homeowners installing a recessed MDF shelf","prerequisites":["Recessed MDF shelf","Clear stud bay","Tools to cut the opening"],"article":"To install a recessed MDF shelf, locate a clear stud bay, cut the opening carefully, and prime and paint exposed surfaces after installation. 1. Locate a clear stud bay. Find a bay that is clear of studs for the shelf opening. Do not cut until you have located a clear stud bay. 2. Cut the opening carefully. Make the cut with care so the opening matches the recessed shelf. 3. Prime and paint exposed surfaces after installation. Once the shelf is installed, prime and paint any surfaces that are exposed. Do not prime and paint those surfaces before installation according to this note; do it after installation. Do not skip locating a clear stud bay. Do not cut without care. Do not leave exposed surfaces unprimed and unpainted after installation. Locating a clear stud bay comes first. Cutting the opening carefully comes next. Priming and painting exposed surfaces comes after the shelf is installed. If you have not found a clear stud bay, keep locating one before you cut. If you are cutting, cut the opening carefully. If installation is done and surfaces are exposed, prime and paint them. A recessed MDF shelf is installed with those three facts: locate a clear stud bay, cut the opening carefully, and prime and paint exposed surfaces after installation. Repeat the checks on the finished opening. Keep the bay clear of studs. Keep the cut careful. Keep primer and paint for exposed surfaces after the shelf is in. Do not cut first. Do not skip finishing exposed surfaces. Do not reverse finish and installation. Follow the listed order from bay location through careful cutting to prime and paint after install.","warning":"none","troubleshooting":["Opening hits framing: locate a clear stud bay before you cut.","Raw MDF shows: prime and paint exposed surfaces after installation."]},{"id":"K17","title":"How do I use a motion-sensor night light?","audience":"homeowners using a plug-in night light","prerequisites":["Motion-sensor night light","Indoor outlet"],"article":"To use a motion-sensor night light, keep it as an indoor plug-in only, set the brightness, and avoid blocking the sensor. 1. Use it as an indoor plug-in only. Plug it in indoors. Do not use it as anything other than an indoor plug-in unit. 2. Set the brightness. Adjust the brightness control to the level you want. 3. Avoid blocking the sensor. Keep objects, cords, and furnishings from covering the sensor so it can receive motion. Do not use it outdoors or in a non-plug-in setup. Do not skip setting brightness. Do not block the sensor. Indoor plug-in use is the location and power method. Setting brightness is a user step after it is plugged in indoors. Keeping the sensor clear is ongoing. If the unit is not indoors on a plug, move to indoor plug-in use only. If brightness is wrong, set the brightness. If something is in front of the sensor, move it so the sensor is not blocked. A motion-sensor night light is used with those three facts: indoor plug-in only, set brightness, and avoid blocking the sensor. Repeat those checks whenever you place or adjust the light. Keep it indoors and plugged in. Keep brightness set. Keep the sensor unblocked. Do not relocate it outdoors. Do not cover the sensor with decor or cords. Do not ignore the brightness setting. Follow the listed method for everyday use. Plug in indoors, set brightness, and leave the sensor clear so the night light can operate as described. Stay inside those limits on every outlet you use.","warning":"Indoor plug-in only.","troubleshooting":["Light does not respond: set brightness and avoid blocking the sensor.","Wrong place for the unit: this is an indoor plug-in only."]},{"id":"K18","title":"How do I use a garden nozzle?","audience":"homeowners attaching a hose nozzle","prerequisites":["Garden nozzle","Garden hose"],"article":"To use a garden nozzle, thread it onto the hose by hand, select the spray pattern before you open the flow, and relieve pressure before you remove it. 1. Thread the nozzle onto the hose by hand. Turn it on by hand. Do not start with a tool for threading. 2. Select the spray pattern before opening the flow. Choose the pattern you want first. Then open the flow. Do not open the flow before the pattern is selected. 3. Relieve pressure before removal. When you are done, relieve the pressure. Only then remove the nozzle from the hose. Do not skip hand threading. Do not open flow before the pattern is set. Do not remove the nozzle while it is still under pressure. Hand threading comes first. Pattern selection comes next, before flow. Relieving pressure comes before removal. If the nozzle is not yet on the hose, thread it on by hand. If flow is about to start, select the spray pattern first. If you are ready to take the nozzle off, relieve pressure before removal. A garden nozzle is used with those three facts: thread onto the hose by hand, select the spray pattern before opening flow, and relieve pressure before removal. Repeat that order each time you attach, spray, and remove. Keep threading by hand. Keep pattern selection ahead of flow. Keep pressure relieved before the nozzle comes off. Do not reverse pattern and flow. Do not pull the nozzle off under pressure. Do not skip hand threading. Follow the listed method from attachment through spray choice to depressurized removal.","warning":"Relieve pressure before removal.","troubleshooting":["Leak at the hose: thread the nozzle onto the hose by hand.","Wrong spray or hard removal: select the spray pattern before opening flow, and relieve pressure before removal."]},{"id":"K19","title":"How do I use a utility faucet?","audience":"homeowners using a utility faucet","prerequisites":["Utility faucet with threaded spout","Hose-thread attachment when appropriate"],"article":"To use a utility faucet, add common hose-thread attachments only when appropriate, and hand-tighten first to avoid cross-threading. 1. Use the threaded spout with common hose-thread attachments only when appropriate. The spout accepts those attachments in appropriate cases. Do not add an attachment when it is not appropriate. 2. Hand-tighten first. Start the threads by hand. 3. Avoid cross-threading. Hand-tightening first is how you avoid cross-threading. Do not force the first turns with a tool. Do not put on a hose-thread attachment when it is not appropriate. Do not skip the hand-tighten start. Do not cross-thread the spout. Deciding whether an attachment is appropriate comes first. Hand-tightening comes next so the threads start true. Avoiding cross-threading is the reason for that hand start. If the attachment is not appropriate, do not use it on this spout. If you are starting the threads, hand-tighten first. If the threads bind, back off so you do not cross-thread. A utility faucet with a threaded spout is used with those facts: it accepts common hose-thread attachments only when appropriate, and you hand-tighten first to avoid cross-threading. Repeat that care on every attachment. Keep attachments limited to appropriate common hose-thread types. Keep the first tightening by hand. Keep the threads from cross-threading. Do not force a mismatched attachment. Do not start threads with a wrench. Do not ignore a cross-thread. Follow the listed method from appropriate attachment through a hand-tight start. Stay with those limits each time you connect to the spout.","warning":"Hand-tighten first to avoid cross-threading.","troubleshooting":["Threads bind: hand-tighten first to avoid cross-threading.","Attachment will not fit: the spout accepts common hose-thread attachments only when appropriate."]},{"id":"K20","title":"How do I choose and mount a shelf bracket?","audience":"homeowners mounting a shelf bracket","prerequisites":["Shelf bracket with 12-inch arm","Mounting and shelf materials chosen for the intended load"],"article":"To use this shelf bracket, know that it is sold one at a time, that the arm is 12 inches, and that you must choose mounting and shelf materials appropriate to the intended load. 1. Plan for a single bracket if that is what you purchased. The bracket is sold one at a time. Buy additional brackets separately if you need more than one. 2. Account for the 12-inch arm. The arm length is 12 inches. Use that length when you plan the shelf depth and placement. 3. Choose mounting and shelf materials appropriate to the intended load. Match the wall mounting and the shelf material to the load you intend to place on the shelf. Do not assume a pair is in the package. Do not plan around a different arm length. Do not ignore the intended load when you pick mounting and shelf materials. Confirming quantity comes first because units are sold one at a time. Confirming the 12-inch arm comes next. Choosing mounting and shelf materials for the intended load comes before you rely on the install. If you need two brackets, obtain another unit; they are sold one at a time. If your plan needs a different arm, this arm is 12 inches. If the load is not matched, choose mounting and shelf materials appropriate to the intended load. This shelf bracket is defined by those facts: sold one at a time, 12-inch arm, and mounting and shelf materials chosen for the intended load. Repeat those checks before you hang a shelf. Keep count based on single-unit sales. Keep the arm at 12 inches in your layout. Keep materials matched to the intended load. Do not skip the load match. Follow the listed facts from purchase through material choice.","warning":"Choose mounting and shelf materials appropriate to the intended load.","troubleshooting":["You expected a pair: brackets are sold one at a time.","Shelf or mount does not suit the job: the arm is 12 inches; choose mounting and shelf materials appropriate to the intended load."]}]}