{"articles":[{"id":"K01","title":"How do I apply acrylic-latex interior caulk?","audience":"Homeowner applying interior caulk","prerequisites":["Clean and dry gap","Acrylic-latex interior caulk"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to apply acrylic-latex interior caulk to an interior gap. The note says the gap must be clean and dry before you start. The caulk is acrylic-latex interior caulk, and it is not for submerged locations. Work through the numbered steps in order and keep the application within these facts.\n\n1. Check the gap and make sure it is clean and dry before you open the caulk.\n2. Cut the nozzle to open the caulk for the bead you plan to apply.\n3. Place the caulk at the start of the clean, dry gap and apply a steady bead.\n4. Move along the gap while keeping the bead steady from start to finish.\n5. Smooth the caulk after you apply the steady bead.\n6. Let the caulk cure before you paint over it.\n7. Paint the caulk after it has cured.\n8. Keep the caulk out of submerged locations.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: clean and dry gap, cut nozzle, apply steady bead, smooth, cure, then paint. Do not use this acrylic-latex interior caulk in submerged locations. If the gap is not clean and dry, clean and dry it before applying caulk. If you plan to paint, wait until the caulk is cured. Keep the work focused on the interior gap and the listed caulk. Use these steps to keep the application clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Do not use this caulk in submerged locations.","troubleshooting":["If the gap is not clean and dry, clean and dry it before applying caulk.","If you plan to paint, wait until the caulk is cured."]},{"id":"K02","title":"How do I prepare and install peel-and-stick floor planks?","audience":"Homeowner installing floor planks","prerequisites":["Unopened boxes of peel-and-stick planks","Clean, dry, flat subfloor"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to prepare for and install peel-and-stick floor planks. The note gives three main requirements: acclimate unopened boxes in the room for 48 hours, make sure the subfloor is clean, dry, and flat, and stagger the seams. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts. The subfloor must meet all three conditions: clean, dry, and flat.\n\n1. Keep the peel-and-stick floor plank boxes unopened before acclimation.\n2. Place the unopened boxes in the room where the planks will be installed.\n3. Leave the unopened boxes in that room for 48 hours to acclimate.\n4. Keep the boxes closed for the full 48-hour acclimation period.\n5. Check that the subfloor is clean before you begin installation.\n6. Check that the subfloor is dry before you begin installation.\n7. Check that the subfloor is flat before you begin installation.\n8. Set the peel-and-stick planks on the clean, dry, flat subfloor.\n9. Stagger the seams as you set the planks.\n\nThe note does not list other preparation requirements. Do not install the planks over a subfloor that is not clean, dry, and flat. If the boxes have not been acclimated, keep them unopened in the room for 48 hours. If the seams are not staggered, adjust the plank layout as you set the planks. Use these steps to keep the installation clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Do not install over a subfloor that is not clean, dry, and flat.","troubleshooting":["If the boxes have not been acclimated, keep them unopened in the room for 48 hours.","If the seams are not staggered, adjust the plank layout as you set the planks."]},{"id":"K03","title":"How do I use a magnetic stud finder?","audience":"Homeowner locating wall fasteners","prerequisites":["Magnetic stud finder","Wall to check"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to use a magnetic stud finder on a wall. The note says to move the tool slowly across the wall. It finds metal fasteners, not wood directly. Mark more than one fastener to trace the stud. The tool is a magnetic stud finder, and it works by finding metal fasteners. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Move the magnetic stud finder slowly across the wall.\n2. Watch for the tool to find metal fasteners as you move it.\n3. Mark the first metal fastener you find.\n4. Continue moving the tool slowly across the wall.\n5. Mark more than one metal fastener.\n6. Use the marks from more than one fastener to trace the stud.\n7. Remember that the tool finds metal fasteners, not wood directly.\n8. Keep the tool moving slowly as you check the wall.\n\nThe note gives a simple method: move slowly, find metal fasteners, mark more than one, and use the marks to trace the stud. The magnetic stud finder does not find wood directly. If the tool does not react, move it slowly across the wall. If you need to trace a stud, mark more than one metal fastener. Marking more than one fastener gives you more than one point to use when you trace the stud. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"The tool finds metal fasteners, not wood directly.","troubleshooting":["If the tool does not react, move it slowly across the wall.","If you need to trace a stud, mark more than one metal fastener."]},{"id":"K04","title":"How do I apply weatherstrip tape?","audience":"Homeowner applying weatherstrip tape","prerequisites":["Weatherstrip tape","Clean and dry contact surface"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to apply weatherstrip tape. The note says to clean and dry the contact surface, measure first, and do not stretch the tape during application. The contact surface is the surface where the tape will make contact. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Clean the contact surface where the weatherstrip tape will go.\n2. Dry the contact surface before you apply the tape.\n3. Measure the area first so you know the length you need.\n4. Use the measurement to plan where the weatherstrip tape will go.\n5. Apply the weatherstrip tape to the clean, dry contact surface.\n6. Do not stretch the tape during application.\n7. Place the tape on the contact surface without pulling it longer.\n8. Check that the tape is applied without stretching.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: clean and dry the contact surface, measure first, and do not stretch the tape during application. Measure first, then apply the tape to the clean, dry surface. If the surface is not clean and dry, clean and dry it before applying tape. If the tape is stretched, apply it without stretching. The note does not list other preparation steps. Do not pull the tape to make it longer during application. Use these steps to keep the application clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Do not stretch the tape during application.","troubleshooting":["If the surface is not clean and dry, clean and dry it before applying tape.","If the tape is stretched, apply it without stretching."]},{"id":"K05","title":"How do I apply a drywall mesh patch?","audience":"Homeowner patching drywall","prerequisites":["Drywall mesh patch","Joint compound"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to apply a drywall mesh patch. The note says to remove loose paper, stick the patch, cover it with compound, and let the compound dry before sanding or paint. The drywall mesh patch is applied after the loose paper is removed. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Remove loose paper from the area where the drywall mesh patch will go.\n2. Check that the loose paper has been removed before you stick the patch.\n3. Stick the drywall mesh patch in place.\n4. Cover the patch with compound.\n5. Cover the entire patch with compound.\n6. Let the compound dry before you sand it.\n7. Let the compound dry before you paint over it.\n8. Sand the dry compound if the project calls for sanding.\n9. Paint the area after the compound has dried.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: remove loose paper, stick the patch, cover with compound, and let the compound dry before sanding or paint. Do not sand or paint until the compound is dry. If loose paper remains, remove it before sticking the patch. If the compound is wet, let it dry before sanding or painting. The note does not list other steps. Keep the patch covered with compound before drying. Let the compound dry fully before sanding or paint. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Let the compound dry before sanding or painting.","troubleshooting":["If loose paper remains, remove it before sticking the patch.","If the compound is wet, let it dry before sanding or painting."]},{"id":"K06","title":"How do I connect and mount linkable LED bars?","audience":"Homeowner installing LED bars","prerequisites":["Linkable LED bars","Mounting location"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to connect and mount linkable LED bars. The note says to unplug before connecting, link no more than six bars, and mount before plugging in. The linkable LED bars are connected while unplugged. The linked set must not have more than six bars. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Unplug the linkable LED bars before you connect them.\n2. Connect the linkable LED bars while they are unplugged.\n3. Count the bars and link no more than six bars.\n4. Keep the linked set to no more than six bars.\n5. Mount the linkable LED bars before you plug them in.\n6. Check that the bars are mounted before plugging in.\n7. Plug in the linkable LED bars after mounting.\n8. Keep the linked set at six bars or fewer.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: unplug before connecting, link no more than six bars, and mount before plugging in. Mounting comes before plugging in. Do not connect the bars while they are plugged in. Do not link more than six bars. Plug in only after the bars are mounted. If the bars are already plugged in, unplug them before connecting. If more than six bars are linked, reduce the linked set to no more than six. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Unplug before connecting and link no more than six bars.","troubleshooting":["If the bars are already plugged in, unplug them before connecting.","If more than six bars are linked, reduce the linked set to no more than six."]},{"id":"K07","title":"How do I install a door sweep?","audience":"Homeowner installing a door sweep","prerequisites":["Door sweep","Door width measurement"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to install a door sweep. The note says to measure the door width, trim aluminum only as needed, and keep the vinyl seal lightly touching the threshold. The door width measurement is the first step. The aluminum is trimmed only as needed, not more. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Measure the door width before you begin.\n2. Use the door width measurement to plan the door sweep installation.\n3. Trim the aluminum only as needed.\n4. Check that the aluminum is trimmed only as needed.\n5. Install the door sweep on the door.\n6. Keep the vinyl seal lightly touching the threshold.\n7. Check that the vinyl seal lightly touches the threshold.\n8. Adjust the sweep if the vinyl seal does not lightly touch the threshold.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: measure the door width, trim aluminum only as needed, and keep the vinyl seal lightly touching the threshold. The vinyl seal should lightly touch the threshold. Do not trim the aluminum more than needed. Keep the vinyl seal in light contact with the threshold. Measure the door width before trimming or installing. If the sweep is too long, trim aluminum only as needed. If the vinyl seal presses too hard, adjust it so it lightly touches the threshold. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Keep the vinyl seal lightly touching the threshold and trim aluminum only as needed.","troubleshooting":["If the sweep is too long, trim aluminum only as needed.","If the vinyl seal presses too hard, adjust it so it lightly touches the threshold."]},{"id":"K08","title":"How do I install toggle bolts?","audience":"Homeowner using toggle bolts","prerequisites":["Toggle bolt selected for the job","Drill and bit for selected size"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to install toggle bolts. The note says to drill a hole for the selected size, insert the bolt through the item then the toggle, and do not overtighten in a hollow wall. The selected size is the size of the toggle bolt you are using. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Select the toggle bolt size for the job.\n2. Drill a hole for the selected size.\n3. Insert the bolt through the item.\n4. Insert the bolt through the item then the toggle.\n5. Place the toggle through the drilled hole.\n6. Check that the toggle is placed through the drilled hole.\n7. Tighten the toggle bolt in the hollow wall.\n8. Do not overtighten the toggle bolt in the hollow wall.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: drill a hole for the selected size, insert the bolt through the item then the toggle, and do not overtighten in a hollow wall. The bolt goes through the item first, then the toggle. Drill the hole for the selected size before inserting the toggle bolt. If the hole is not for the selected size, drill the hole for the selected size. If the toggle is not through the item, insert the bolt through the item then the toggle. Do not overtighten the toggle bolt in the hollow wall. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Do not overtighten the toggle bolt in a hollow wall.","troubleshooting":["If the hole is not for the selected size, drill the hole for the selected size.","If the toggle is not through the item, insert the bolt through the item then the toggle."]},{"id":"K09","title":"How do I use a GFCI tester?","audience":"Homeowner checking a GFCI outlet","prerequisites":["GFCI tester","Standard 120-volt outlet"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to use a GFCI tester. The note says to use only standard 120-volt outlets, plug in and read three lights against instructions, and remember it is not a substitute for an electrician. The GFCI tester is used only on standard 120-volt outlets. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Check that the outlet is a standard 120-volt outlet.\n2. Use the GFCI tester only on standard 120-volt outlets.\n3. Plug the GFCI tester into the standard 120-volt outlet.\n4. Read the three lights on the GFCI tester.\n5. Compare the three lights against the instructions.\n6. Do not treat the GFCI tester as a substitute for an electrician.\n7. Remember that the tester is not a substitute for an electrician.\n8. Use the three-light reading only against the instructions.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: use only standard 120-volt outlets, plug in and read three lights against instructions, and remember it is not a substitute for an electrician. Read all three lights before making a comparison. The tester is not a substitute for an electrician. Plug in the tester only after checking the outlet. If the outlet is not standard 120-volt, do not use the tester. If the three lights do not match the instructions, do not treat the tester as a substitute for an electrician. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Use only standard 120-volt outlets; the tester is not a substitute for an electrician.","troubleshooting":["If the outlet is not standard 120-volt, do not use the tester.","If the three lights do not match the instructions, do not treat the tester as a substitute for an electrician."]},{"id":"K10","title":"How do I choose and use deck screws?","audience":"Homeowner using deck screws","prerequisites":["Exterior coated deck screws","Bit that fully seats in the star drive"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to choose and use deck screws. The note says to use exterior coated screws, choose a bit that fully seats in the star drive, and do not use the screws for structural connections. The star drive must be fully seated by the bit. Exterior coated screws are the screws to use. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Choose exterior coated screws for the deck work.\n2. Use exterior coated screws for the deck work.\n3. Choose a bit that fully seats in the star drive.\n4. Check that the bit fully seats in the star drive.\n5. Do not use the deck screws for structural connections.\n6. Keep the deck screws out of structural connections.\n7. Use the bit that fully seats in the star drive.\n8. Check that the screws are exterior coated.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: use exterior coated screws, choose a bit that fully seats in the star drive, and do not use the screws for structural connections. Choose the bit before driving the deck screws. Check the screw type before use. Do not use deck screws for structural connections. If the bit does not fully seat in the star drive, choose a bit that does. If the screw is not exterior coated, use an exterior coated screw. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Do not use deck screws for structural connections.","troubleshooting":["If the bit does not fully seat in the star drive, choose a bit that does.","If the screw is not exterior coated, use an exterior coated screw."]},{"id":"K11","title":"How do I use tile spacers?","audience":"Homeowner setting tile","prerequisites":["Tile spacers","Tile being set"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to use tile spacers. The note says to place spacers at corners as tile is set, remove them before grout, and keep spacing consistent. Tile spacers are placed at the corners while the tile is set. The spacing should stay consistent from tile to tile. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Place tile spacers at the corners as tile is set.\n2. Set the tile with spacers at the corners.\n3. Keep the spacing consistent as you set tile.\n4. Check that the spacing is consistent.\n5. Remove the tile spacers before grout.\n6. Check that all spacers are removed before grout.\n7. Keep the spacers at the corners while the tile is set.\n8. Remove spacers before you begin grout.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: place spacers at corners as tile is set, keep spacing consistent, and remove spacers before grout. Remove the spacers before grout, not after. Do not leave spacers in place for grout. Place spacers at corners as each tile is set. Keep the spacing consistent as you work. Check the spacing before grout. Remove all spacers before grout. If spacing is not consistent, adjust spacers as tile is set. If spacers remain, remove them before grout. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Remove spacers before grout.","troubleshooting":["If spacing is not consistent, adjust spacers as tile is set.","If spacers remain, remove them before grout."]},{"id":"K12","title":"How do I use a sink hair catcher?","audience":"Homeowner maintaining a sink drain","prerequisites":["Sink hair catcher","Sink drain"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to use a sink hair catcher. The note says to lift it out regularly, empty debris, rinse it, and do not force it into the drain. The sink hair catcher is lifted out regularly to remove debris. Empty the debris before rinsing the catcher. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Lift the sink hair catcher out regularly.\n2. Empty the debris from the sink hair catcher.\n3. Rinse the sink hair catcher.\n4. Put the sink hair catcher back in place.\n5. Do not force the sink hair catcher into the drain.\n6. Check that the sink hair catcher is not forced into the drain.\n7. Repeat lifting out the catcher regularly.\n8. Empty and rinse the catcher when you lift it out.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: lift out regularly, empty debris, rinse, and do not force it into the drain. Rinse the catcher after emptying debris. Do not force the catcher into the drain. Lift out the catcher regularly and empty the debris. Rinse the catcher after you empty it. Check that the catcher is not forced into the drain. If debris collects, lift out the catcher and empty it. If the catcher does not fit easily, do not force it into the drain. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Do not force the hair catcher into the drain.","troubleshooting":["If debris collects, lift out the catcher and empty it.","If the catcher does not fit easily, do not force it into the drain."]},{"id":"K13","title":"How do I use a canvas drop cloth?","audience":"Homeowner protecting a work area","prerequisites":["Canvas drop cloth","Work area to cover"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to use a canvas drop cloth. The note says to cover the work area, shake out dry debris outdoors, and let wet paint dry before folding. The canvas drop cloth covers the work area. Dry debris is shaken out outdoors. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Cover the work area with the canvas drop cloth.\n2. Use the canvas drop cloth to cover the work area.\n3. Shake out dry debris outdoors.\n4. Check that the debris is dry before shaking it out outdoors.\n5. Let wet paint dry before folding the canvas drop cloth.\n6. Check that the paint is dry before folding.\n7. Fold the canvas drop cloth after the paint is dry.\n8. Keep the canvas drop cloth over the work area.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: cover the work area, shake out dry debris outdoors, and let wet paint dry before folding. Wet paint must dry before the cloth is folded. Shake out only dry debris outdoors. Do not fold the cloth while paint is wet. Cover the work area before you start. Let wet paint dry before folding the cloth. Check that debris is dry before shaking it out. If debris is dry, shake it out outdoors. If paint is wet, let it dry before folding. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Let wet paint dry before folding the canvas drop cloth.","troubleshooting":["If debris is dry, shake it out outdoors.","If paint is wet, let it dry before folding."]},{"id":"K14","title":"How do I install a closet rod?","audience":"Homeowner installing a closet rod","prerequisites":["Closet rod","Brackets and suitable support"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to install a closet rod. The note says to confirm the span is 48-72 inches, mount brackets into suitable support, and extend the rod after brackets are set. The closet rod span must be 48-72 inches. The brackets must be mounted into suitable support. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Confirm the closet rod span is 48-72 inches.\n2. Check that the span is within 48-72 inches.\n3. Mount the brackets into suitable support.\n4. Check that the brackets are mounted into suitable support.\n5. Extend the closet rod after the brackets are set.\n6. Check that the brackets are set before extending the rod.\n7. Extend the rod only after brackets are set.\n8. Keep the span within 48-72 inches.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: confirm the span is 48-72 inches, mount brackets into suitable support, and extend the rod after brackets are set. The rod is extended after the brackets are set. Do not extend the rod before the brackets are set. Confirm the span before mounting the brackets. Mount the brackets into suitable support before extending the rod. If the span is outside 48-72 inches, do not use this rod for that span. If brackets are not set, set them before extending the rod. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Confirm the span is 48-72 inches and mount brackets into suitable support.","troubleshooting":["If the span is outside 48-72 inches, do not use this rod for that span.","If brackets are not set, set them before extending the rod."]},{"id":"K15","title":"How do I use concrete crack filler?","audience":"Homeowner filling concrete cracks","prerequisites":["Concrete crack filler","Horizontal crack"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to use concrete crack filler. The note says to sweep debris, use it on horizontal cracks only, and not for structural repair. Concrete crack filler is used on horizontal cracks only. The filler is not for structural repair. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Sweep debris from the area before using concrete crack filler.\n2. Check that the debris has been swept away.\n3. Use the concrete crack filler on horizontal cracks only.\n4. Check that the crack is horizontal before use.\n5. Do not use the concrete crack filler for structural repair.\n6. Keep the concrete crack filler out of structural repair.\n7. Use the filler only on horizontal cracks.\n8. Sweep debris before applying the filler.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: sweep debris, use on horizontal cracks only, and do not use for structural repair. Sweep debris before using the filler. Do not use the filler on non-horizontal cracks. The filler is not for structural repair. Check that the crack is horizontal before use. Sweep debris before applying concrete crack filler. Use concrete crack filler on horizontal cracks only. Do not use it for structural repair. If debris remains, sweep it before applying filler. If the crack is not horizontal, do not use this filler. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Use on horizontal cracks only; not for structural repair.","troubleshooting":["If debris remains, sweep it before applying filler.","If the crack is not horizontal, do not use this filler."]},{"id":"K16","title":"How do I install a recessed MDF shelf?","audience":"Homeowner installing a recessed shelf","prerequisites":["Recessed MDF shelf","Clear stud bay"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to install a recessed MDF shelf. The note says to locate a clear stud bay, cut the opening carefully, and prime or paint exposed surfaces after installation. The recessed MDF shelf needs a clear stud bay. Cut the opening carefully before installation. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Locate a clear stud bay for the recessed MDF shelf.\n2. Check that the stud bay is clear.\n3. Cut the opening carefully.\n4. Check the opening as you cut it carefully.\n5. Install the recessed MDF shelf.\n6. Prime the exposed surfaces after installation.\n7. Paint the exposed surfaces after installation.\n8. Prime or paint the exposed surfaces after installation.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: locate a clear stud bay, cut the opening carefully, and prime or paint exposed surfaces after installation. Prime or paint exposed surfaces after installation. Do not cut the opening without locating a clear stud bay. Check that the stud bay is clear before cutting. Prime or paint the exposed surfaces after the shelf is installed. Cut the opening carefully during installation. Locate a clear stud bay before cutting the opening. If the stud bay is not clear, locate a clear stud bay. If exposed surfaces are not finished, prime and paint them after installation. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Locate a clear stud bay and cut the opening carefully.","troubleshooting":["If the stud bay is not clear, locate a clear stud bay.","If exposed surfaces are not finished, prime and paint them after installation."]},{"id":"K17","title":"How do I use a motion-sensor night light?","audience":"Homeowner using a night light","prerequisites":["Motion-sensor night light","Indoor outlet"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to use a motion-sensor night light. The note says it is indoor plug-in only, set brightness, and avoid blocking the sensor. The motion-sensor night light is for indoor plug-in use only. Set the brightness before use. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Use the motion-sensor night light indoors only.\n2. Plug the motion-sensor night light into an indoor outlet.\n3. Set the brightness on the motion-sensor night light.\n4. Check that the brightness is set.\n5. Avoid blocking the sensor.\n6. Check that the sensor is not blocked.\n7. Keep the sensor clear after installation.\n8. Use the night light as an indoor plug-in only.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: indoor plug-in only, set brightness, and avoid blocking the sensor. Avoid blocking the sensor after installation. Do not use the night light outdoors. Set the brightness to the level you want. Keep the sensor clear so it is not blocked. Plug in the night light indoors only. Check that the sensor is not blocked after installation. Use the night light as an indoor plug-in only. If the sensor is blocked, clear the area around it. If used outdoors, do not use it; it is indoor plug-in only. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Indoor plug-in only; avoid blocking the sensor.","troubleshooting":["If the sensor is blocked, clear the area around it.","If used outdoors, do not use it; it is indoor plug-in only."]},{"id":"K18","title":"How do I use a garden nozzle?","audience":"Homeowner using a garden hose nozzle","prerequisites":["Garden nozzle","Hose"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to use a garden nozzle. The note says to thread it onto the hose by hand, select the spray pattern before opening flow, and relieve pressure before removal. The garden nozzle is threaded onto the hose by hand. Select the spray pattern before opening the flow. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Thread the garden nozzle onto the hose by hand.\n2. Check that the nozzle is threaded onto the hose by hand.\n3. Select the spray pattern before opening flow.\n4. Check the spray pattern before opening flow.\n5. Open the flow after selecting the spray pattern.\n6. Relieve pressure before removal.\n7. Check that pressure is relieved before removal.\n8. Remove the garden nozzle after relieving pressure.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: thread onto the hose by hand, select the spray pattern before opening flow, and relieve pressure before removal. Relieve pressure before removing the nozzle. Do not open the flow before selecting the spray pattern. Thread the nozzle onto the hose by hand. Check that pressure is relieved before removal. If the nozzle is not threaded by hand, thread it onto the hose by hand. If you need to remove the nozzle, relieve pressure first. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Relieve pressure before removal.","troubleshooting":["If the nozzle is not threaded by hand, thread it onto the hose by hand.","If you need to remove the nozzle, relieve pressure first."]},{"id":"K19","title":"How do I use a utility faucet with a threaded spout?","audience":"Homeowner attaching a hose-thread item","prerequisites":["Utility faucet with threaded spout","Common hose-thread attachment when appropriate"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to use a utility faucet with a threaded spout. The note says the threaded spout accepts common hose-thread attachments only when appropriate, and you should hand-tighten first to avoid cross-threading. The threaded spout accepts common hose-thread attachments only when appropriate. Hand-tighten the attachment first to avoid cross-threading. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Check that the attachment is appropriate for the threaded spout.\n2. Use common hose-thread attachments only when appropriate.\n3. Hand-tighten the attachment first.\n4. Check that the attachment is hand-tightened first.\n5. Avoid cross-threading the attachment.\n6. Check that the attachment is not cross-threaded.\n7. Use the threaded spout with common hose-thread attachments only when appropriate.\n8. Hand-tighten first to avoid cross-threading.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: use common hose-thread attachments only when appropriate, and hand-tighten first to avoid cross-threading. Do not force an attachment that is not appropriate. Check that the attachment is appropriate before use. Avoid cross-threading by hand-tightening first. Use common hose-thread attachments only when appropriate. Do not cross-thread the attachment. If the attachment cross-threads, remove it and hand-tighten first. If the attachment is not appropriate for the threaded spout, do not force it. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Hand-tighten first to avoid cross-threading.","troubleshooting":["If the attachment cross-threads, remove it and hand-tighten first.","If the attachment is not appropriate for the threaded spout, do not force it."]},{"id":"K20","title":"How do I use a shelf bracket?","audience":"Homeowner installing a shelf bracket","prerequisites":["12-inch arm shelf bracket","Mounting and shelf materials appropriate to intended load"],"article":"Use this help-center guide to use a shelf bracket. The note says the bracket is sold one at a time, has a 12-inch arm, and you should choose mounting and shelf materials appropriate to the intended load. The shelf bracket is sold one at a time. The bracket has a 12-inch arm. Follow the steps in order and keep the work within these facts.\n\n1. Note that the shelf bracket is sold one at a time.\n2. Check that the bracket has a 12-inch arm.\n3. Choose mounting materials appropriate to the intended load.\n4. Choose shelf materials appropriate to the intended load.\n5. Check that the mounting and shelf materials are appropriate to the intended load.\n6. Use the 12-inch arm shelf bracket.\n7. Use mounting materials appropriate to the intended load.\n8. Use shelf materials appropriate to the intended load.\n\nThe note gives a simple order: the bracket is sold one at a time, it has a 12-inch arm, and you should choose mounting and shelf materials appropriate to the intended load. Choose materials appropriate to the intended load. Check the intended load before choosing materials. Use a 12-inch arm shelf bracket. If the bracket is not a 12-inch arm, use the 12-inch arm bracket. If mounting or shelf materials are not appropriate to the intended load, choose appropriate materials. Use these steps to keep the task clear and practical for a homeowner.","warning":"Choose mounting and shelf materials appropriate to the intended load.","troubleshooting":["If the bracket is not a 12-inch arm, use the 12-inch arm bracket.","If mounting or shelf materials are not appropriate to the intended load, choose appropriate materials."]}]}